CREATING A PEYOTE BEZEL

(©2012 Deborah Roberti)

The base for all of my rivoli patterns is the peyote bezel. Made up of size 11/0 Delica beads and 15/0 seed beads, this beaded bezel—or cup—holds the rivoli in place and also enables you to embellish the rivoli by beading around it.

In the Materials list for this tutorial and for all of my rivoli patterns, I specify the use of 15/0 Japanese seed beads. Why Japanese seed beads? When it comes to creating a peyote bezel, size is everything. Steadily decreasing the size of the beads in each row causes the bezel to “cup.” However, not all seed beads are the same size. A size 15/0 Czech seed bead is much smaller than a size 15/0 Japanese seed bead. I suggest using all Japanese seed beads for my projects because this combination of beads works for me. Once you know how to create a peyote bezel, however, you can use whatever seed beads you prefer.

In addition, for Step 1, I always instruct you to start by stringing a certain number of two different colored Delica beads, alternating between the two. This is just my “thing,” so to speak. You don’t have to do this. You can use all one color. However, when you use two colors, you end up with a nice single ridge of different colored Delica beads, making it really easy to find the center of the bezel when you are adding beads later to embellish your rivoli like this:

Lastly, although I use a size 12mm rivoli for this tutorial and for many of my patterns, these instructions can be used with most rivoli sizes. The only element that changes is the number of Delica beads that you start with in Step 1. Here are some rivolis that I have made peyote bezels for and the number of Delica beads that I started with:

Swarovski #1122 12mm round rivoli: 32 size 11 Delica beads
Swarovski #1122 14mm round rivoli: 36 size 11 Delica beads
Swarovski #1122 or #1100 47ss round (about 10.7mm) rivoli: 28 size 11 Delica beads
Swarovski #4100 or #4120 12x10mm oval rivoli: 30 size 11 Delica beads
Swarovski #4100 or #4120 14x10mm oval rivoli: 32 size 11 Delica beads

I’ll add to this list as I play with different rivoli sizes.

Materials for this tutorial:

• About 1 yard of 4 lb. FireLine

• One size 12mm round rivoli

• Approximately 32 size 11/0 Delica beads (Color1)

• Approximately 16 size 11/0 Delica beads (Color2)

• Approximately 64 size 15/0 Japanese seed beads

For this tutorial, we’ll bezel a size 12mm rivoli.

Step 1: Thread your needle with 1 yard of FireLine. Start by stringing 32 Delica beads, alternating between Color1 and Color2. Leaving about a 6-inch tail, tie these beads in a circle with a double knot:

Step 2: Go through the next Color2 Delica bead on this circle of Delica beads:

Step 3: Next you want to use the peyote stitch to add another row of Delica beads.

String a Color1 Delica bead, go around (“skip”) the existing Color1 Delica bead on the circle of Delica beads and then go through the Color2 Delica bead on the circle.

This new Color1 Delica bead should “sit” on top of the existing Color1 Delica bead on the circle:

Step 4: String a Color1 Delica bead, skip the existing Color1 Delica bead on the circle of Delica beads and then go through the next Color2 Delica bead on the circle.

Again, this new Color1 Delica should “sit” on top of the existing Color1 Delica bead on the circle:

Step 5: Repeat Step 4 all the way around the circle of Delica beads until you get to the end:

As you do, this circle of Delica beads will start to seem more like a band as you pull to lock beads into place. As such, I find it easier to put this band of Delica beads on my index finger (whenever it fits) as I continue to add new Delica beads:

Step 6: With circular peyote, once you get to the end of the row, you want to “step up” (go to the inside of your band of Delica beads) and go through the Color1 Delica highlighted in RED:

Step 7: Now you will add a row of size 15/0 seed beads, and as you do, your band will start to “cup”.

String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the Color1 Delica bead highlighted in RED. The
15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color2 Delica bead and between the two Color1
Delica beads:

Step 8: String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the Color1 Delica bead highlighted in RED.

Again, the 15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color2 Delica bead and between the two Color1 Delica beads:

Step 9: Repeat Step 8 all the way around the circle until you get to the end.

Pull nice and tight as you add 15/0 seed beads so you get a uniformly firm “cup”:

Step 10: “Step up” again and go through the 15/0 seed bead highlighted in RED (the first 15/0 seed that you strung in this row of 15/0 seed beads):

Step 11: Now you will add another row of size 15/0 seed beads.

String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the 15/0 seed bead highlighted in RED. This new
15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color1 Delica bead and between the two 15/0 seed beads from the previous row:

Note: For this second row of 15/0 seed beads, some beaders prefer to use a row of 15/0 Charlottes instead because they are even smaller than 15/0 seed beads. I tend to look through my 15/0 seed beads and use the smallest I can find for this row. The key, however, for this row is to pull tight.

Step 12: String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the 15/0 seed bead highlighted in RED. Again, this new 15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color1 Delica bead and between the two 15/0 seed beads from the previous row:

Step 13: Repeat Step 12 all the way around the circle until you get to the end. Again, pull nice and tight as you add 15/0 seed beads so you get a uniformly firm “cup”:

You’ve just created the front side of your bezel:

Note: For larger rivolis—size 16mm and larger—you will need to add an additional row of size 15/0 seed beads.

Step 14: Weave your way to the other side of the bezel so that you are exiting from a Color1 Delica bead (go through Color1 Delica beads highlighted in RED).

This is a good time to tie a knot before you continue with the back side of your bezel:

Step 15: Place your rivoli pretty side down into your beaded bezel:

Step 16: Next you will add another two rows of 15/0 seed beads (exactly as you did in Steps 7 to 13) to create the back side of your bezel and to encase the rivoli into the peyote bezel.

String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the Color1 Delica bead highlighted in RED. The 15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color2 Delica bead and between the two Color1 Delica beads:

NOTE: As you work this first back side row of 15/0 seed beads, I find it easiest to hold the rivoli in place with my thumb as I add beads but the rivoli will flop around. It’s annoying but what is most important is that you keep the tension tight as you add 15/0 seed beads so that they begin to “cup” around the rivoli.

Step 17: String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the Color1 Delica bead highlighted in RED.

Again, the 15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color2 Delica bead and between the two Color1 Delica beads:

Step 18: Repeat Step 17 all the way around the circle until you get to the end.

Pull nice and tight as you add the 15/0 seed beads so you get a uniformly firm “cup”. The rivoli will start to stay in place without support but it will still pop out with little effort:

Step 19: “Step up” again and go through the 15/0 seed bead highlighted in RED (the first 15/0 seed that you strung in this row of 15/0 seed beads):

Next you will add a second row of 15/0 seed beads. As you do, make sure to keep the tension nice and tight so that the rivoli doesn’t pop out later. This is why I prefer to use FireLine rather than Nymo or C-Lon thread. With FireLine, there’s less chance of breakage as you pull tight.

Step 20: String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the 15/0 seed bead highlighted in RED. This new 15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color1 Delica bead and between the two 15/0 seed beads from the previous row:

Step 21: String a size 15/0 seed bead. Go through the 15/0 seed bead highlighted in RED. Again, this new 15/0 seed bead will sit on top of the Color1 Delica bead and between the two 15/0 seed beads from the previous row:

Step 22: Repeat Step 21 all the way around the circle until you get to the end. Again, pull nice and tight as you add 15/0 seed beads. Knot but don’t cut your thread:

You’ve just finished the back side of your peyote bezel and the rivoli should be locked within the 15/0 seed beads and not pop out. Again, for larger rivolis—size 16mm and larger—you will need to add an additional row of size 15/0 seed beads.

Flip it over to see how pretty the front side is: